Side Button Greyhound Sweater
A ribbed, buttoned sweater to fit your fast friend! Knit in one piece, starting out knitted in the round, the turtleneck increases to a chest gusset for a better fit. After the chest gusset is complete and cast off, short row shaping completes the turn down the torso and the body is knit flat. There is a buttoned belly panel for ease in donning and removing sweater. The sweater is knit in a broad rib (belly panel is 1x1 rib) to accommodate a range of chest sizes. There is also an option to leave a
slit in the collar to allow a leash to pass through.
• see note at end of pattern regarding photos
•
SIZES:
To fit chest measurement: Length (base of neck to tail):
M 26 – 28 inches M 28 inches
L 28 – 30 inches L 30 inches
XL 30 – 32 inches XL 32 inches
[Length can be adjusted to fit your particular hound. After the side decreases have been
completed, there is a section of “straight” knitting which can be adjusted to your measurements.]
MATERIALS:
_ Bernat Natural Blends “Wool Blend” 100 g (3.5 oz) 240 yds/216 m *
80% acrylic, 20% wool:
M L XL
2 3 3 skeins (or other worsted weight yarn that will match gauge)
*The variegated colourways have less yardage; make sure to calculate for this.
_ 18 mm buttons of your choice: M L XL
3 3 4
_ 3 stitch markers
_ 4.5 mm (US 7) [or size needed to achieve gauge] circular knitting needle, 16” for neck, 24 or
32” for body
Gauge: 17 st and 20 rows = 4” in stocking stitch
Abbreviations:
inc = increase (I used a M1 lifted strand increase)
dec = decrease
ssk = slip next two stitches knitwise to right needle, then knit together
k2tog = knit next two stitches together
RS = right side (of work)
WS = wrong side (of work)
INSTRUCTIONS:
[The instructions are written for size M; any changes for subsequently larger sizes will be
displayed by ( ) ]
Collar: Cast on 68 (76) (80) stitches, place marker and join in round being careful not to twist
stitches. Begin K2 P2 rib around. Rib for 7.5 (8) (9) inches.
Slit for leash pass-through (optional):
Rib to halfway point of round. Cast off one stitch, work to end of round. Continue working round to the hole created by the cast off stitch. TURN work and rib back. Work flat for 5 rounds. On the 5th round, work to the hole, cast on one stitch and continue to work in the round. If not making slit, rib 6 more rounds.
First collar increase: inc 16 (18) (20) stitches evenly. You may incorporate the increases into your K2 parts of the rib. 84 (94) (100) stitches. Rib 10 (11) (12) more rounds.
Second collar increase: inc 10 stitches evenly. 94 (104) (110) stitches. Work 6 (7) (8) rounds even.
Set out chest gusset stitches: set out with markers 14 (16) (18) stitches for the chest gusset. The end of round marker will be in the middle of these stitches (opposite to the leash slot).
Depending on how you placed your increase stitches, you may have to adjust the markers a stitch or two to the left/right to make sure your center back is exactly half way from the gusset. Count it out. Remove the previous “end of round” marker. The right gusset marker will now indicate the new beginning/end of round. You are going to work the gusset stitches in stocking stitch, increasing on the inside of the gusset markers. While working the chest gusset, you may wish to begin to knit the first two sets of P2 stitches on either side of gusset to make a nice, broad stocking stitch section in which to do your short row shaping and side decreases after completion of the chest gusset. Begin gusset increases: Slip marker, knit 1, inc one stitch, knit to one stitch before next gusset marker. Inc one stitch, then continue working back of sweater in established rib to end of round.
Work two rounds even. Repeat these 3 rounds twice more. 100 (110) (116) stitches.
Work inc rounds every other row 7 (8) (9) times. 114 (126) (134) stitches.
You may wish to work a K1 P1 rib for the last five or six rows of the chest gusset to prevent it from rolling up when the sweater is being worn.
Next round: work even around to the second chest gusset marker. Remove marker, then cast off the 32 (36) (40) gusset stitches. Work to end of round. 82 (90) (94) stitches. You are working flat now. Work WS row.
Begin short-row shaping: Knit 4 stitches, slip next stitch purlwise. Bring yarn to front of work and slip stitch back to left needle. Bring yarn to back of work. Turn, purl back. Knit to wrap, knit this and wrapped stitch together, then wrap next stitch and continue in this manner until you have wrapped the 11th stitch, purled back and then work to the end of the row. (A good shortrow tutorial may be found at
www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=143 )
Repeat this short-row shaping on the WS (purl side) in the same manner.
Cast on belly panel: At the end of the next WS row, place a marker, then backwards loop cast on 28 (34) (40) stitches. 110 (124) (134) stitches. Turn work. Knit 4 stitches (keep these 4 stitches in garter stitch to create the button hole band) and K1P1 rib to marker. Slip marker, inc one stitch at each end of body section every other row three times. 116 (130) (140) stitches.
BELLY PANEL LENGTH AND BUTTON HOLES:
M panel will be 8” long. Button holes can be placed at 1”, 4” and 7” points.
L panel will be 9” long. Button holes can be placed at 1” 4.5” and 8” points.
XL panel will be 10” long. Button holes can be placed at 1”, 3.5”, 6.5” and 9” points.
Button hole can be made on a RS row in the 4-st garter section by: K2, YO, K2tog.
Work 6 (8) (8) rows even.
Begin side decreases: work belly panel stitches, slip marker then decrease one stitch at either end of body section. I like a SSK on the right hand edge and a K2tog on the left hand edge of body section. Dec every other row for a total of 15 times. 86 (100) (110) stitches. At the same time, continue working the ribbed belly panel, placing button holes evenly and cast off the 28 (34) (40) belly panel stitches in rib when length is 8” (9”) (10”). 58 (66) (70) stitches. Work in established rib until length measures 23” (25”) (27”) from first collar increase. [This measurement can be tweaked if your hound is longer/shorter than this. The tail/rump shaping takes 3.5 to 4 inches.]
Begin rump shaping: Place marker at center back and decrease one stitch on either side of
marker on next 5 RS rows. (ssk/k2tog) 48 (56) (60) stitches
Continue centre decreases as established and begin decreasing two stitches at the beginning and end of RS rows 4 (5) (5) times. You may work the decreases into the K sections of the rib. 24 (26) (30) stitches
Cast off in rib. Weave in ends. Lay sweater flat and establish button placement and sew on.
Note regarding sweaters in photos: The red sweater is a size M and is too small for the model.
It is quite snug in the chest and too short on her hips. The brown sweater is a size XL and was the third prototype. The belly panel is an inch or so too far back on the body. This pattern has been adjusted for the correct placement of the belly panel and should sit about the same place as it does on the red sweater.
Length measurement is taken from the first collar increase so the collar may be as long or short as you wish. You could knit an extra-long collar which could double as a snood on those chilly days. © 2008 Terri Lee Royea. This pattern may be freely distributed as long as proper attribution is made and this copyright notice remains in place. Why not whip one up for your local greyhound adoption group?
www.royea.net/side_button_greyhound_sweater.pdf 25 May 2008 version
